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Restoration Classic Cars

One of the biggest problems using Spray Glue for upholstery is keeping the glue off the visible side of the material. Once you get a drop or mist of glue on there all the cleaning in the world will be of little help. You'll ultimately end up with a spot that collects dirt and grime and shows up to mar your otherwise perfect upholstery job.

To combat this problem, always keep scrap sheets of printer paper next to the workbench. You can surround the flaps of material that you are spraying with the sheets of paper. They are stiff enough to slide underneath and light enough not to slip away. Use each piece of paper once and then throw it away. Any residual glue will transfer from it to your upholstery fabric.

Related : Cars
Related : Cars Article

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Classic Restoration Cars

Anyone who's used body filler knows how difficult it is to spread over "delicate" areas. You know: when the filler has to spread over a very thin imperfection or just has to provide that "last little surface."

The problem is that the filler is fairly viscous and resists being spread in a thin film. The result is air bubbles or a thicker-than-desired surface that requires more careful sanding. While there are specialized fillers designed to spread more evenly, here's another useful idea: Add a little liquid fiberglass resin (you invariably have a big can of it that will never get used up!) to the body filler and catalyst mixture. Stir everything well (the catalyst works in both products, so don't worry) and there you have it - a smooth, less-viscous, creamy mixture that will spread beautifully.

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Classic Restoration Cars

You know how the motor control and in the case of the automatic transmission fluid: just look at the dipstick. The right - or wrong - the level of coverage is obvious.

What is not is obviously the condition of the oil, so the next time it is a clean piece of white paper with you. Paper towels or toilet paper are most suitable for this operation.

Clean the dipstick on the white paper and watch the remaining oil. Engine oil should be firm, without a particle or "sect". If they exist, you have to watch out for leaks and oil change. Recognizing the rest of smell, traces of gasoline, or "blow-by" or the smell of burnt oil.

Purposes of this test with gear oil, it should also be a color (usually red), not "burned" visible particles or color. If it smells burnt, it was too long or there are problems inside the transmission.

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Classic Restoration Cars

Do you have a filthy, painted-over, but otherwise salvageable VIN, engine, transmission or other identification plate that is original to the car? Probably so, and you don't know how to clean it up without losing the very imprints you're trying to save.

Many of these plates were silk-screened or printed in easy-to-remove, oil-based inks, so you don't want to attempt a cleaning using solvents or abrasives. What should you do?

Do what the restoration Car people at museums do, of course! Use gel-type hand cleaners!

That's right, the art historians who regularly restore priceless paintings use everyday gel hand cleaners (you know, the greasy stuff that doesn't contain pumice!) to gently lift off layers of crud from the delicate finishes.

Use very soft cloth or cotton balls spread with a thin film of cleaner. Gently wipe the plate surface back and forth, changing the cleaning material as it picks up dirt and grease. Be patient, because this will take considerable time. Eventually your plate will look quite presentable, if not like new. When finished you can apply a little polish to the plate to brighten it up.

Your identification plate might not have anywhere near the value of a museum painting, but it's just as important to you, so clean it carefully.